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Chalmers, James, 1841-1901

"Adventures in New Guinea"

It begins
with the Astrolabe, extending west until Vetura is reached, and then away
east by south until the centre of the range is reached. In some places
it has a perpendicular rock face of many hundred feet; in other places it
is broken rock with bush growth, and only at very long distances can
tracks be found, and even then it is difficult to get up. We descended
to the river, a large one, flowing west, through great rocks, often lost,
sometimes only pools appearing here and there until, some distance down,
and when eight hundred feet above sea-level, it comes out a fine and
flowing river. We had a good bath, and, of course, the inevitable
_kuku_, and then skirted the side of the ridge, passing close by and
under great rocks and overhanging cliffs, and up a most extraordinary
steep path into splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations. Weary, we sat
down and ate sugar-cane under the shade of a great rock. This West
Indian "long breakfast" goes well when thirsty and hungry. The natives
who accompanied us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned them on
the fire and ate them.


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